Mille Una Wines
Italy, regrettably, lost a good deal of this patrimony when its vineyards were replanted in the aftermath of World War II, but a few patches of old-vine vineyards have managed to survive, some in Piedmont but the majority in the south.
And the southernmost part of the Salento peninsula in Puglia has been particularly favored by the devotion of its cultivators to this source of superior grapes, particularly of Primitivo.
Mille Una, a firm founded by four partners, has dedicated its efforts over the years to the opportunity offered by these treasures: head-pruned bush vines from 30 to 70 years of age located in such spots as Sava, Lizzano, and Maruggio.
To discover these vineyards is a moving sight: massive, gnarled trunks, their branches reaching skyward towards the Mediterranean sun just a short distance from Ionian sea. Here yields are microscopic, from .5 to .7 tons per acre, the maximum the vines can give and without any necessity on the part of their cultivators to intervene to limit the size of the crop.
The wines are often superb, and to choose a favorite in the lengthy line is a difficult task, but certain names regularly stand out: Ori di Taranto, Bacmione, Majara, Tretarante, and Sharazad.